PET TURTLES

General Information Several species of turtles are available for purchase as pets. By far the most common species is the popular box turtle. The turtle is a popular reptile pet; the box turtle is probably the most common species of turtle kept as a pet. Salmonella is a bacterium often implicated in food poisoning. While the disease rarely causes anything more serious than vomiting and diarrhea in adults, young children and people with lowered immune systems can easily develop a fatal disease. Turtles are certainly not the only pet or reptile that can spread Salmonella. However, since box turtles were a common children's pet, the danger of infection is very real. Most of the turtles carried the infection asymptomatically, which meant that they were never sick. You can imagine how easily the disease, which involves contact with infected feces, could be spread if young children were placing the turtles in their mouths! Common sense and good hygiene are essential in preventing this and really most diseases. After handling any pet, its excrement, or its bedding and toys,THOROUGHLY WASH YOUR HANDS. Most box turtles never get very large (unlike tortoises). The average adult size for box turtles is roughly 5-7 inches in diameter, with females being slightly smaller than males. This adult size is reached at 4-6 years of age. Turtles that are not allowed to hibernate grow at a faster rate. Sexual maturity is reached about the fifth year of life. With proper diet and housing, many turtles can live 30-40 years or longer. Turtles have a number of "rings" on their top shells. The number of rings on the shell of the turtle has nothing to do with its age. The protective shell makes surgery difficult. Two techniques are available for performing internal surgery. One technique is where the shell is cut and then repaired following the procedure; the second technique involves making an incision in front of and through the muscles of the pelvis and hind limbs. Muscling is limited in turtles, and the protective shells (which are hinged to allow movement) replace most of their bones. The top, or dorsal, shell is called the carapace; the bottom, or ventral, shell is called the plastron. In general, males have a more concave plastron than females; this concavity allows for easier mating. Males are also larger than females, and are usually more colorful (having a male and female next to each other makes the comparison easier). The distance between the vent or cloaca (common opening for the digestive, urinary, and reproductive tracts) and the turtle's body is greater in males. The pectoral or chest muscles are well developed. Despite the obvious lack of muscling, turtles are extremely strong. The strength, manifested by the turtle retracting into its shell when disturbed, is one of the signs to check for when purchasing a turtle. Turtles lack teeth but have a strong "beak", and turtles can and do bite! The other weapon of the turtle is its claws, which should be periodically trimmed (your veterinarian can show you how). Turtles have no diaphragm, but rather breathe by movements of membranes enclosing their internal organs and by movements of their legs and head. Turtles have a three-chambered heart, whereas dogs, cats, and people have a four-chambered heart. Turtles have a renal portal blood system, where blood from the hind limbs is filtered by the kidneys before reaching the general circulation. This means toxins from the rear limbs (as could occur from wounds on the legs) as well as drugs injected into the rear legs would probably be filtered before entering the general circulation. Turtles excrete uric acid as their main waste product of protein metabolism (dogs, cats, and people excrete urea). This allows them to adapt to desert environments here water supply might be restricted. Turtles have a cloaca, which is a common opening for the digestive, urinary, and genital systems. The shell is covered with bony plates called scutes. The scutes are usually shed in large patches, unlike snakes which usually shed in one piece. The number of scutes has nothing to do with the turtle's age. The top bony plate is the carapace, and the bottom plate (shell) is the plastron. Unlike many reptiles, turtles have a urinary bladder. Selecting a turtle Most owners buy turtles locally from a pet store or breeders. Ask about a guarantee if the pet isn't what you want. Young, captive-raised animals make the best pets. Older imported animals may harbor internal parasites, and often suffer from the stress of captivity. Avoid sick-looking animals. Start out right with a healthy pet. Avoid turtles that have sunken or closed eyes, have any type of discharge coming from the nostrils or eyes, or appear inactive or lethargic. Eyes that are sunken into the head or swollen shut often indicate dehydration, emaciation, starvation, and Vitamin A deficiency. A healthy turtle is usually active and alert, feels "heavy", and retracts its head and limbs into its shell when handled. Make sure the shell is clean and isn't cracked, missing scutes (plates), or has any signs of infection (often seen as shell discoloration or moldy growth). The vent or cloaca should be clean and free of wetness or stool stuck to it. If you can GENTLY open the mouth (which is difficult in most turtles), there should be a small amount of clear saliva present. Mucus that is cloudy or "cottage cheese" in appearance is a sign of mouth rot, as is redness or pinpoint hemorrhages on the mucus membranes. Always inquire about the guarantee in case the turtle is found to be unhealthy. First Veterinary Visit Within 48 hours of your purchase, a qualified reptile veterinarian should examine your turtle. The visit includes determining the animal's weight, as well as checking for lumps and bumps. The animal is examined for signs of dehydration and starvation. A fecal test is done to check for internal parasites. Many veterinarians consider all turtles (even those bred in captivity) to have internal parasites, so your turtle may be routinely dewormed for parasites. The oral cavity is examined for signs of infectious stomatitis (mouth rot). Your doctor may recommend blood tests, cultures, or radiographs (X-rays) to check for other diseases. If all turns out well, your turtle will be given a clean bill of health. Like all pets, turtles should be examined annually and have their feces tested for parasites annually as well. Housing my turtle Turtles may be housed inside or outside, depending upon environmental conditions and owner preference. If you choose to house your turtles indoors, a 10 or 20-gallon aquarium is usually adequate. Bedding Substrate, or bedding material, should be easy to clean and nontoxic to the turtle. Newspaper, butcher paper, towels, or preferably Astroturf is recommended. When using Astroturf, buy two pieces and cut them to fit the bottom of the cage. With two pieces, one is placed in the cage and one is kept outside the cage and is always clean. When the turf inside the cage becomes soiled, you'll always have a clean, dry piece to replace it. Clean the soiled turf with ordinary soap and water (avoid harsher products unless your reptile veterinarian approves them), thoroughly rinse it, and hang it to dry to be used at the next cage cleaning. Alfalfa pellets can also be used for bedding and are often eaten by the turtle, which is acceptable. AVOID sand, gravel, wood shavings, corn cob material, walnut shells, and cat litter, as these are not only difficult to clean but can cause impactions if eaten on purpose or accidentally should the food become covered by these substrates. Cedar wood shavings are toxic to reptiles! What else do I need? The turtle enjoys natural branches. Make sure they are secure and won't fall onto the turtle and injure it. Ideally, the branch should slope from the bottom of the enclosure to the top and end near a heat source so the turtle can bask. Rocks (large ones) in the cage also allow for basking. A hiding place is appreciated by all reptiles and should be available. Artificial plants can be arranged to provide a hiding place, as can clay pots, cardboard boxes, and other containers that provide a secure area. A heat source is necessary for all reptiles, which are cold-blooded and need a range of temperatures to regulate their internal body temperature. Ideally, the cage should be set up so that a heat gradient is established, with one area of the tank warmer than the other end. In this way, the turtle can move around its environment and warm or cool itself as needed. Purchase two thermometers and place one at the cooler end of the cage and one at the warmer end near the heat source. The cooler end of the cage should be approximately 70-75 F, while the warmer end should be 90-100 F. An inexpensive way to do this is to supply a focal heat source using a 100-watt incandescent bulb with a reflector hood, although pet stores sell other types of heat lamps. Your heat source should be placed OUTSIDE and above one end of the cage, which should be covered by a screen top to prevent the turtle from escaping or burning itself on the bulb. At night, heat isn't necessary as long as the temperature remains at 65-70 F. "Hot Rocks" or "Sizzle Rocks" are dangerous, ineffective, and should be avoided!  UV light UV light is necessary to provide Vitamin D-3. Failure to provide UV light can predispose your turtle to metabolic bone disease, a common condition of pet turtles. The UV light should emit light in the UV-B range (290-320 nanometers). Combining a blacklight (such as one from General Electric) with a Vita-Lite, Chroma-50, or Colortone-50 in a two-bulb fixture is an excellent way to provide UV light, although many turtles do well with just a Vita-Lite. Your veterinarian may recommend other brands of UV light that also provide a source of Vitamin D-3. The UV output of these lights decreases with age; they should be replaced every six months. For UV light to work, it must reach the pet in an unfiltered form, which means that you must make sure there is no glass or plastic interposed between the pet and the light. Finally, the light should be within 6-12 inches from the turtle in order for the pet to receive any benefit. If you choose to house your turtle outdoors, it should be contained within an enclosure. Make sure a shaded area is provided, as well as a hiding area. Turtles can dig out of enclosures, so bury the fencing 6-12 inches or put bricks or rocks under the area. Some owners find a children's wading pool a suitable environment. Of course, food and fresh water must always be available. Bring the turtle indoors if the temperature drops below 60 degrees. Remember that turtles can become prey for neighborhood dogs and cats, so keep this in
mind when housing a turtle outdoors. Feeding my turtle Turtles are both herbivorous and carnivorous, which means that they eat both plant and animal based foods. As a guideline, your turtle's diet should be about 50% plant-based material and 50% animal-based material. Most young turtles eat daily; older turtles can be fed daily or every other day, depending upon each pet's individual appetite. Plant material I can feed my turtle Most (80-90%) of the plant material should be flowers and vegetables, and only 10-20% should be fruits. As a rule, anything green and leafy should make up a large part of the diet. Yellow and orange vegetables should also be included. Avoid fiber-rich, vitamin-deficient vegetables including lettuce and celery; their composition is mainly fiber and water with little vitamins or minerals. Acceptable vegetables include collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, alfalfa hay or chow, bok choy, kale, parsley, spinach (in small amounts), bell peppers, green beans, green peas, corn, okra, cactus, various squashed, sweet potatoes, cabbage or broccoli (also in small amounts), and flowers such as carnations, hibiscus, and roses (avoid azaleas as they are toxic). Fruit can include apples, pears, bananas, grapes, peaches, kiwis, and melons. Fruits that are particularly healthy include figs (which contain calcium), papaya, raspberries and strawberries. Protein foods I can offer my turtle If you and your veterinarian decide that animal-based protein sources are acceptable, some appropriate foods include crickets, sardines (drained), tofu, hard-boiled eggs, moths, and mealworms. Dog and cat food contain too much Vitamin D and fat and should not be fed. Reptile pellets, bird pellets, trout chow, and other fish chows are excellent protein sources. Live prey, such as crickets and worms, should either be raised by the owner, retrieved from a nearby field, or purchased from a pet store or reptile breeder. Care must be exercised when collecting insects, especially from the home garden as fertilizers and insecticides can be toxic to turtles. Vitamins It is recommended to LIGHTLY sprinkle all the food offered to the turtle with a calcium powder (calcium gluconate, lactate, or carbonate). A LIGHT weekly sprinkling of a good reptile vitamin on the food is also recommended. Over-supplementation with vitamins and minerals can cause problems in turtles. Check with your veterinarian for specific recommendations about the need to supplement your pet's diet. Water Fresh water in a crock that won't easily tip over should be available at all times. Turtles will not only drink from the water bowl but will often bathe in it as well (although it is perfectly acceptable to mist the turtle with water a few times a week too). Make sure the water stays clean; many turtles love to eliminate in their water bowl as well as drink from it. Common diseases of pet turtles Common conditions of pet turtles include Vitamin A deficiency, respiratory diseases, abscesses, shell infections and fractures, and parasites. Vitamin A deficiency occurs as a result of feeding turtles an inappropriate diet. The all-meat diet, or the "cricket and fruit cocktail" diet, or the "lettuce and carrots" diet, are all deficient. Lack of Vitamin A produces signs seen with changes in the epidermis (outer layer of skin and mucus membranes), including lack of appetite, lethargy, swelling of the eyes and eyelids (often with a pus-type discharge), swelling of the ear (actually an ear abscess), and respiratory infections. Most respiratory infections are caused by bacteria, and in turtles are often secondary to Vitamin A deficiency. Turtles with respiratory infections may have excess mucus in their oral cavities, nasal discharges, lethargy and loss of appetite, and possibly open-mouth breathing and wheezing.  Abscesses, commonly seen in pet turtles, appear as hard tumor-like swellings anywhere on the pet's body. Abscesses in turtles are often related to Vitamin A deficiency. Shell problems are often encountered in turtles. These can be infections caused by bacteria, fungi, or viruses, or more commonly are the result of fractures of the shells. Parasites, such as roundworms, are common in pet turtles. They often cause no clinical signs and are detected on an annual fecal examination. They may, however, cause diarrhea or weight loss. How do I know if my turtle is sick? Signs of disease in turtles may be specific for a certain disease, such as nasal discharge in the case of a respiratory infection, or non-specific, such as a turtle with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases. ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian. Any disease in turtles can be severe enough to cause a loss of appetite and lethargy. When seen, these signs indicate a guarded prognosis and the need for hospitalization and intensive care, which can include fluid therapy and force-feeding. Special Problems Turtles have several unique problems; understanding these problems will allow you to better care for your pet and minimize future health care issues. Cystic Calculi Commonly called bladder stones, these occur when minerals from the diet form crystals, which then form stones. Usually these are composed of uric acid, which usually results from a diet that contains too much protein (such as a diet high in dog food or cat food). Often, you will detect blood in your turtle's droppings. An examination and radiographs (X-rays) allow your veterinarian to correctly diagnose the problem. Surgical removal of the stones is needed, as is fluid therapy to prevent kidney damage. Your veterinarian will discuss dietary correction in an attempt to prevent future stones from forming. Salmonella Turtles are infamous for carrying Salmonella bacteria. This bacterium can cause severe gastrointestinal disease or septicemia (blood poisoning). Many animals and people carry the bacteria without showing any clinical signs (remember Typhoid Mary?), yet shed the bacteria in their feces which can infect others. During the mid-1970s, it was discovered that many young children contracted the disease from their pet turtles. Many of these children didn't exercise proper hygiene (such as washing their hands after handling the turtles and even placing the turtles in their mouths). Prevention, through proper hygiene, is the best way to control the disease. Since most turtles which carry Salmonella are not ill, they usually require no treatment (treatment often fails to kill the bacterium anyway). Hibernation If given the opportunity, most turtles will attempt to hibernate. While controversial, many feel that it is not necessary for the turtle's health that it does hibernate, but some owners wish to provide suitable conditions for hibernating. Hibernation is very stressful, and subclinical illnesses can manifest themselves during hibernation.  Only turtles that are in good health should be allowed to hibernate, so a thorough examination and appropriate laboratory tests are essential prior to hibernation! A common problem in turtles is "pseudohibernation". True hibernation requires a constant temperature between 50-60 degrees (10-15 C). Persistent temperatures above 60 degrees (15 C) are not cool enough for true hibernation. These animals appear as if they are hibernating, but in reality the turtle increases its metabolism and slowly starves.

PET SNAKES

General Information Several species of snakes are commonly kept as pets. These include king snakes, garter snakes, Burmese pythons, various boa constrictors, and ball pythons. The needs of your particular species may differ from the needs of the generic "snake". The ball python will be used for this discussion, as it is one of the most common if not the most common species of pet snakes. Most of the information concerning the ball python is applicable to other terrestrial snake species. Most snakes sold as pets are easy to handle and usually non-aggressive. Many, especially the ball python, may not eat for weeks to months after the stress of going to a new environment. This can be normal, or can be a sign of a more serious disease that requires prompt veterinary attention. Ideally, captive-bred animals should be purchased as pets. Wild caught snakes are less tolerant of stress, more likely to refuse to feed, and often harbor internal and external parasites. Male and female snakes look identical. Hatchling ball pythons are about a foot long and grow to about 3 feet by 3 years of age. At maturity (reached in 3-5 years), adults reach 5-6 feet in length. Depending upon their care, ball pythons can live 10-20 years. Most snakes have only one functional, simple lung (usually the right lung). The lung extends most of the snake's entire body length. Snakes have a cloaca, a common opening for the urinary, digestive, and genital tracts. Snakes have no limbs; many people feel the spurs that are present in the cloacal region of some snakes represent vestigial limbs. Snakes have numerous pairs of ribs. Snakes have a three-chambered heart; people, dogs, and cats have four-chambered hearts. Snakes have no diaphragm; this prevents coughing and airway clearance, and snakes with simple respiratory infections easily develop pneumonia because of this. Respiratory infections in reptiles are always more serious than similar infections in mammals. Males have two reproductive organs called hemipenes. Snakes have spectacles instead of eyelids. Selecting a snake; Most owners buy snakes locally from a pet store or breeders. Ask about a guarantee if the pet isn't what you want. Young, captive-raised animals make the best pets. Older imported animals are harder to tame, may harbor internal parasites, and often suffer from the stress of captivity. Avoid sick-looking animals. Start out right with a healthy pet. Avoid snakes that appear skinny, have loose skin or sunken eyes, and appear inactive or lethargic. A healthy snake is usually bright, active, and alert. The eyes should be clear; cloudy eyes usually indicate the snake is about to shed. While not a sign of illness, shedding is very stressful to snakes and it would be best to purchase a snake that is not about to shed. As you examine the eyes, check for mites, which are tiny black dots that often move. Make sure no lumps or bumps are present; simply running your hands slowly down the snake's body will allow you to detect any swellings. The vent or cloaca should be clean and free of wetness or stool stuck to it. If possible, GENTLY open the mouth. There should be a small amount of clear saliva present, and a pink tongue and oral cavity. Mucus that is cloudy or "cottage cheese" in appearance is a sign of mouth rot, as is redness or pinpoint hemorrhages on the mucus membranes. Always inquire about the guarantee in case the snake is found to be unhealthy. First veterinary visit; Within 48 hours of your purchase, a qualified reptile veterinarian should examine your snake. The visit includes determining the animal's weight, as well as checking for lumps and bumps. The animal is examined for signs of dehydration and starvation. A fecal test is done to check for internal parasites. Many veterinarians consider all snakes (even those bred in captivity) to have some type of parasite, so your snake may be routinely dewormed. The oral cavity is examined for signs of infectious stomatitis (mouth rot). Your doctor may recommend blood tests, cultures, or radiographs (X-rays) to check for other diseases. If all turns out well, your snake will be given a clean bill of health. Like all pets, snakes should be examined annually and have their feces tested for parasites annually as well. Housing my snake; Smaller juvenile pets often do well in a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium, or even plastic shoeboxes (cut small air holes!). As your snake grows, he must be moved to more comfortable enclosures. These can often be purchased or built by the pet owner. Bedding; Substrate, or bedding material, should be easy to clean and nontoxic to the snake. Newspaper, butcher paper, towels, or preferably Astroturf is recommended. When using Astroturf, buy two pieces and cut them to fit the bottom of the cage. With two pieces, one is placed in the cage and one is kept outside the cage and is always clean. When the turf inside the cage becomes soiled, you'll always have a clean, dry piece to replace it. Clean the soiled turf with ordinary soap and water (avoid harsher products unless your reptile veterinarian approves them), thoroughly rinse it, and hang it to dry to be used at the next cage cleaning. AVOID sand, gravel, wood shavings, corn cob material walnut shells, and cat litter, as these are not only difficult to clean but can cause impactions if eaten on purpose or accidentally should the food become covered by these substrates. Cedar wood shavings are toxic to reptiles! What else; The snake enjoys natural branches. Make sure they are secure and won't fall onto the snake and injure it. Ideally, the branch should slope from the bottom of the enclosure to the top and end near a heat source so the snake can bask. Rocks (large ones) in the cage also allow for basking. A hiding place is appreciated by all reptiles and should be available. Artificial plants can be arranged to provide a hiding place, as can clay pots, cardboard boxes, and other containers that provide a secure area. A heat source is necessary for all reptiles, which are ectothermic (cold-blooded) and need a range of temperatures to regulate their internal body temperature. Ideally, the cage should be set up so that a heat gradient is established, with one area of the tank warmer than the other end. In this way, the snake can move around its environment and warm or cool itself as needed. Purchase two thermometers and place one at the cooler end of the cage and one at the warmer end near the heat source. The cooler end of the cage should be approximately 70-75 F, while the warmer end should be 90-95 F. An inexpensive way to do this is to supply a focal heat source using a 100-watt incandescent bulb with a reflector hood, although pet stores sell other types of heat lamps. Your heat source should be placed OUTSIDE and above one end of the cage, which should be covered by a screen top to prevent the snake from escaping or burning itself on the bulb. At night, heat is not necessary as long as the temperature remains at 65-70 F. "Hot Rocks" or "Sizzle Rocks" are dangerous, ineffective, and should be avoided! UV light; While UV light is necessary to provide Vitamin D-3 for most reptiles, people are divided about the need for UV light for snakes. This is because snakes consume whole prey as the diet, and the prey is "nutritionally balanced" for snakes. However, providing UV light would

not be harmful and may be beneficial, so it would probably be wise to provide some type of UV light such as a Vita-Lite. Feeding snakes; Unlike most pets, snakes eat whole prey items including mice, rats, gerbils, and hamsters. Larger snakes will also eat whole rabbits. Since snakes eat entire prey items, this simplifies things for snake owners, and most certainly prevents many dietary-related diseases so commonly seen in other reptiles. However, it does present a problem. Namely, you must provide some type of prey to the snake. If you're squeamish about killing rodents for your snake and then watching it eat the prey, a snake is probably not the pet for you! Ideally, your snake should be provided either a thawed, previously frozen prey item, or a freshly killed one. It is not recommended to feed live prey to snakes for several reasons. First, the prey obviously knows it is prey and unless killed and eaten immediately, it certainly suffers some psychological stress. Second, and surprising for most snake owners, is the fact that even a small mouse can severely injure and even kill a snake if the snake isn't hungry! For humane reasons, strongly consider feeding dead prey. How often; That all depends upon the size and age of your pet. Smaller snakes usually eat twice each week, and larger snakes eat once every week to once every few weeks. Your pet snake will also tell you how often he needs to eat by his response to your feeding schedule. Not eating? Normal or sick? There are many causes of anorexia, or failure to eat in pet snakes. These could be benign causes such as the stress of a new environment, shedding, pregnancy, or breeding season anorexia. Failure to eat could also be a sign of a more serious problem such as cancer, kidney failure, gout, or parasites. Your veterinarian can help determine the cause of your snake's anorexia after a thorough physical examination and appropriate laboratory testing. Water; Fresh water in a crock that won't easily tip over should be available at all times. Snakes will not only drink from the water bowl but will often bathe in it as well (although it is perfectly acceptable to mist the snake with water a few times a week too). Make sure the water stays clean; many snakes love to eliminate in their water bowl as well as drink from it. Common diseases of pet snakes; Common conditions of pet snakes include infectious stomatitis (mouth rot), parasites, respiratory disease, difficulty shedding, and septicemia. Infectious Stomatitis (Mouth Rot) is seen as pinpoint hemorrhages on the gums or an excess amount of thick mucus, often like cottage cheese, in the mouth. In severe cases, the snake will exhibit a severe swelling of the mouth and exhibit open-mouth breathing. Parasites are often encountered in pet snakes. They often cause no clinical signs and are detected on an annual fecal examination. They may, however, cause diarrhea or weight loss. Most respiratory infections are caused by bacteria, and in snakes are often seen in conjunction with mouth rot. Snakes with respiratory infections may have excess mucus in their oral cavities, nasal discharges, lethargy and loss of appetite, and possibly open-mouth breathing and wheezing. Some snakes have difficulty shedding. Often this is due to improper environmental temperature or humidity. A special concern is the snake with retained spectacles (eye caps). The spectacles are normally shed during the shedding process. When they are not shed but rather retained, your veterinarian should be consulted about removal. Improper removal can result in permanent eye damage and blindness. Often increasing the humidity can correct this problem. Septicemia or toxemia is a condition where microbes such as bacteria or toxins invade the blood stream and other body organs. Snakes with septicemia are critically ill and are often near death. They exhibit lethargy, lack of appetite, open-mouth breathing, and often have a red discoloration on the scales of their bellies. Septicemia is a true emergency that requires aggressive treatment in the hospital. Antibiotics, fluid therapy, and force-feeding are needed in an attempt to save the snake. How do I know if my snake is sick? Signs of disease in snakes may be specific for a certain disease, such as a cottage-cheese type discharge in the mouth of a snake with mouth rot, or non-specific, such as a snake with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases. ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian. Any of these diseases can be severe enough to cause a loss of appetite and lethargy. When seen, these signs indicate a guarded prognosis and the need for hospitalization and intensive care, which can include fluid therapy and force-feeding. Special Problems of Snakes; Snakes have several unique problems; understanding these problems will allow you to better care for your pet and minimize future health care problems. Anorexia Anorexia means lack of appetite or refusal to feed. Snakes commonly exhibit anorexia. Anorexia can be a "normal" condition, often associated with pregnancy, the breeding season, incorrect environment, incorrect diet, or most commonly the stress of a new environment. A disease such as infectious stomatitis (mouth rot) most often causes "Abnormal" anorexia, parasites, kidney failure, or gout. Your veterinarian will need to perform a thorough physical examination and run laboratory tests in order to make sure a specific disease does not cause your snake's anorexia. Getting the snake that suffers from "normal" anorexia to eat is a challenge but is usually successful with time and patience. Salmonella While turtles are most commonly incriminated in spreading Salmonella bacteria to their owners, any reptile, including snakes, can carry the bacterium. This bacterium can cause severe gastrointestinal disease or septicemia (blood poisoning). Many animals and people carry the bacteria without showing any clinical signs (remember Typhoid Mary?), yet shed the bacteria in their feces which can infect others. Prevention, through proper hygiene, is the best way to control the disease. Since most snakes which carry Salmonella are not ill, they usually require no treatment (treatment often fails to kill the bacterium anyway). Lumps and Bumps Snakes are commonly seen with various lumps and bumps either on their bodies or within their bodies. Various conditions can cause these lumps and bumps. External lumps could be caused by infections, as is the case with abscesses, tumors, or parasites. Internal swelling can be caused by various organ problems (such as kidney disease, parasitic infections of the stomach), retained eggs in some species of snakes, tumors, and even constipation! Your veterinarian may need to run certain tests to determine the cause of the specific swelling. Once the cause of the swelling is known, the doctor will decide if medical or surgical therapy will best solve the problem. Many lumps and bumps are benign and do not pose a life-threatening risk to your snake. Others can be signs of more serious disease. The sooner your snake is examined, the better its chances of recovery.

OWNING A PET RODENT

General Information Pet rodents (hamsters, rats, mice, gerbils, and guinea pigs) are very popular pets. They can make a good first experience into pets for young children and as a rule require less care than dogs or cats. They have a short life-span (2-5 years depending upon the species); please prepare young children for this so that the "sudden death" of a 3-year-old pet isn't unexpected. As with any pet, they do occasionally get sick, and their illnesses are often severe. All pet rodents should be examined by a qualified veterinarian within 48 hours of purchase. This "new pet" exam is critical to detect signs of disease and help new pet owners get off on the right foot. So many problems are caused by misinformation; the first veterinary visit can help prevent well-intentioned owners from doing the wrong thing and ultimately contributing to the pet's early death. Getting a good book on the type of rodent your will be getting is essential for proper care and husbandry. Anatomical Interests Common to all of the pet rodents is the fact that the front teeth, the incisors, grow continuously throughout the pet's life. To prevent overgrown incisors allow the rodent access to pieces of wood and other chewing devices (beware of splinters!). Treatment involves trimming by your veterinarian, often under anesthesia if things get out of control Rodents are herbivorous animals, and the digestive tract is similar to that of other plant-eaters such as horses and cattle.
		Guinea Pigs No obvious tail is present. Unlike other rodents, only one pair of mammary glands is present. The guinea pig is the only pocket pet with premolar teeth. The young are fully developed at birth, born with hair, and the eyes open. Guinea pigs rarely bite, which makes them ideal pets. However, they do squeal when handled.
		It is important to note that the female Guinea Pig's Pelvis fuses young so if she is not bred early then avoid all contact with a male later as she will be unable to deliver the babies without a C-section. Mice Long tails present. The mammary glands extend along the sides and back of the pet, and therefore breast cancer can appear as a lump ANYWHERE on the body. Young mice are born hairless with their eyes closed. Mice that are not used to being handled may bite but make wonderful pets if socialized. Keep males and females apart since they will breed very rapidly and produce another litter often before the first one is weaned! Rats Like mice the mammary glands extend along the sides and often breast cancer can appear as a lump ventrally anywhere on the body. The young are born hairless with their eyes closed. Rats are very intelligent pets and can be very playful with their owners when properly socialized. Like with mice, they are very prolific and will often produce another litter before the first one is weaned so best to keep the males and females separated unless you consider neutering or spaying by your veterinarian. Hamsters Hip glands, which appear as a black dot on each hip, are present in males. They are used for territorial marking and are poorly developed in females. They are often mistaken for tumours or growths when suddenly noticed by owners. Hamsters have a cheek pouch on each side of the inside of the mouth. Food, and often baby hamsters, are temporarily stored here! Hamsters are the most aggressive of all the pocket pets and often bite. The are nocturnal (prefer to be active at night) and do not make as nice pets for children even with socializing attempts by owners. Hamsters can hibernate. Most hamsters prefer to live singularly and not with other hamsters or else fights occur. Males and females together will breed rapidly but often if the male is kept in with them the youngsters will get attacked. Best to stick to one hamster at a time! Gerbils and Degus Gerbils have long tails. Please be cautious with them as they will lose the skin on their tail if grabbed by the tail firmly. This is a defense mechanism in the wild so the predator gets the skin only and not the Gerbil or the Degu. They are desert animals, they have a very low water requirement. Due to the low water intake, gerbils urinate small amounts. Gerbils are much smaller than Degus. They usually mate for life; they should be paired before sexual maturity or not at all since they will breed as quickly as the previously described rodents! Many gerbils exhibit mild spontaneous seizures (epilepsy), especially when startled. These usually don't require treatment unless it persists. Selecting Your Pet Most owners will buy their pet rodents locally through a pet store or private breeder. Avoid sick-looking animals. Remember that, with exotic pets, if it looks sick, it's really dying! Trying to nurse a sick pet rodent back to health after purchasing it will rarely work. Just the stress of the new environment and feeding is often enough to kill it. So,
				start out right with a healthy pet. Always inquire about the guarantee in case the pet is found to be unhealthy during your routine veterinary examination. Check over your new pet carefully. It should have no discharge from the eyes, nose, or mouth, no coughing, sneezing or wheezing should be present. If you can open the mouth (without being bitten!), make sure the front teeth, have not overgrown (they should form a nice, even fit). The rodent should seem frisky and try to run and resist handling to some extent. Examine the back end as well since it should be dry and free of  diarrhea or caked-on stool. Many baby hamsters at pet stores have a disease called "wet tail", which is usually fatal. Ask the employee for help in determining the animal's sex. Keep in mind that pet store employees may know little more than you about the pet: the sex can be correctly determined during your pet's first veterinary visit. Visiting your Veterinarian Within 48 hours of your purchase, your rodent should be examined by a veterinarian knowledgeable in the treatment of pet rodents. A fecal test is test should be done to check for internal parasites. The veterinarian can also determine the sex of your pet. If all turns out well, your pet will be given a clean bill of health. Like all pets, pet rodents should be examined annually and have their feces tested for parasites during the annual visit. What type of cage? It is most convenient to house pet rodents in a glass aquarium, although cages are available specifically for these pets, just make sure the size is such that your pet can have sufficient room to exercise, play, eat, drink etc. Wooden cages can be chewed through. The cages can be left open at the top providing that the rodent can't escape and other pets (such as the family dog or cat) can't get at your rodent! ALL PET RODENTS ARE MASTERS OF ESCAPE. The cages must be escape-proof. Letting a pet rodent have free run of the house is DISCOURAGED, due to the potential for injury and death to the pet, as well as to destruction of furniture by the pet. They can be handled outside of the cage if care is used (supervise young children). The environmental temperature should be kept between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18 - 29 Celsius); warmer temperatures predispose pet rodents, especially guinea pigs, to heat stroke. Housing together or alone? (just remember un-neutered males and females put together will BREED!) Guinea Pigs Guinea Pigs can be housed together. Sometimes they fight when they are put together but you should let them sort out their pecking order. This may take a couple of days. Sometimes guinea pigs will continue to squeak at one another intermittently and appear to be aggressive. Do not worry they are just re-establishing the pecking order. Hamsters Hamsters are best housed individually. Sexually mature females are aggressive to other females and to males. Mice Male mice are usually housed alone. Female mice rarely fight and are often housed together. Newly assembled male groups, new males entering established territories, and mice previously housed alone are more likely to fight. Rats Unlike mice, rats rarely fight and can be housed in groups. Occasionally, females that have just given birth may fight with other females. Gerbils and Degus Gerbils and Degus are usually housed individually. A monogamous pair can be formed if the male and female are bonded before 8 weeks of age. The pair should not, as a rule, be separated. What kind of bedding to use in the cage? Wood shavings, such as pine or cedar, are usually provided for bedding material. Shredded paper or towels are also fine. Avoid sawdust, sand, or dirt. The cage should be cleaned and the bedding changed as often as it gets dirty, but at least weekly. A frequently cleaned, well- ventilated environment is important in controlling respiratory infections. Any toys should be cleaned weekly as well. Toys Regarding cage toys, these can provide psychological stimulation as well as exercise for the pet rodents. Tubes and mazes are popular, as are exercise wheels. "Open track" exercise wheels, can be dangerous and broken legs are not uncommon occurrences. While not every animal with an exercise wheel will be injured, it is a risk best avoided. The safest wheel is composed of plastic and has no openings in the track ("solid track") where a foot can get caught. Cardboard tubes from paper towel rolls or toilet paper rolls can be used as "tubes" as well as chew toys. Other types of chew toys can be offered to help prevent overgrown incisors; anything suited for dogs, such as Nyla-bones or well-boiled meat bones, are fine. Many owners offer their pet rodents wood sticks to chew, which helps control overgrown incisors beware of splinters! What else to put in the cage? Since rodents like to burrow, they need some type of hiding place for them in the cage. Round, hollow objects can be purchased at the pet stores, or cleaned cans (such as an orange juice can-no rough edges please to avoid cuts) or paper towel cardboard rolls can be provided. What to feed? All of the pet rodents can be fed a good, high quality rodent chow (pelleted food) available at pet stores. Many veterinarians also recommend offering hay to the rodents; check with your veterinarian about this first. The diets containing seeds and nuts ARE NOT RECOMMENDED. If offered these good-tasting seeds and nuts, which are high in fat, many rodents will eat these instead of the formulated pellets (low in protein, high in fat and bad for the liver!).  Fresh food and water should be available at all times and changed fresh daily. Please make sure your Guinea Pig gets sufficient vitamin C!  No other pet rodents require extra vitamins except for Guinea Pigs if the diet isn't supplemented and sufficient fresh fruit made available. They are like humans and cannot make their own vitamin C thus will develop scurvey if not supplemented properly. Check with your veterinarian for quantities needed for your pet Pig. Treats Seeds and nuts can be offered as an occasional treat (less than 10% of the daily diet). Fresh, well-cleaned vegetables and occasionally a small amount of fruit can be offered as well. Leafy green vegetables (not lettuce or celery) can be offered, as well as yellow and orange vegetables. The total daily amount of these "people foods" should not run more than 10% of the diet. Thus, the pets should eat mainly pellets (90% of the diet), 5-10% vegetables and fruits, and occasionally a few seeds or nuts as treats. Many owners offer the food in heavy, spill-proof ceramic crocks, although feeders can be purchased and attached to the cage. Offering hay (such as alfalfa cubes or clover) free choice to the pets as a source of fiber is also acceptable (as long as your veterinarian approves). How can I tell if my rodent is sick? Signs of disease in rodents may be specific for a certain disease. Most commonly, however, signs are vague and non-specific, such as a rodent with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases including pneumonia, cancer, and even kidney or liver failure. ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian. Special Rodent Problems Barbering Many rodents chew on the hair of their cage-mates. Separating the animals prevents the problem. Foot Necrosis/Gangrene This problem is caused by fine fiber or thread nesting material (or bedding) commonly available in pet stores. The pets play with the material, the fine thread gets wrapped around a toe or foot or leg, and within hours the body part is swelling and turning red. This is similar to what happens when you wind a thread tightly around your own finger. If not caught immediately, the swelling progresses to death (necrosis) of the limb followed shortly by gangrene. Affected limbs are swollen and various shades of shades of red, purple, blue and black. In some animals, amputations might be curative. To prevent this condition, DO NOT USE this fine bedding or nesting material. Shredded tissue works perfectly. Vitamin C Deficiency (Scurvy) Unlike many pets, guinea pigs can't make their own Vitamin C. Signs of Vitamin C deficiency (scurvy) include loss of appetite, swollen, painful joints, reluctance to move, lack resistance to infection, and occasional bleeding from the gums. Since Vitamin C deficiency is so common, any sick guinea pig should be given a Vitamin C as part of its treatment. Hyperthermia All pet rodents, but especially guinea pigs are very susceptible to heat stroke from high ambient temperatures. As a rule, the temperature should be no higher than 80 degrees, and the cage should be well ventilated an the humidity kept below 70%. Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, convulsions, and refusal to move. Treatment involves immediately cooling the pet with cool water baths or sprays, and then seeking prompt veterinary care. Ideally, the temperature should be monitored with an in-cage thermometer. Antibiotic Toxicities All pet rodents are sensitive to certain antibiotics. Several of these antibiotics can be fatal. Check with your veterinarian before giving any antibiotic or preferably only one prescribed by your veterinarian. Sialodacryoadenitis ("Red Tears") Red tears, often seen in mice and rats, can be a result of a viral disease, mycoplasmosis, or as a sign of stress. Often it is hard to tell what is actually causing the problem. The condition appears as if blood is coming from the animal's eyes." In the viral infection, usually the salivary and tear glands are involved. Because rodents have porphyrins (pigments) in their tears, any discharge will be seen as red tears. Treatment is symptomatic and involves topical eye medication. Proliferative Ileitis ("Wet Tail") The most serious intestinal disease of hamsters, wet tail is caused by a Campylobacter bacterium. Usually, 3-6-week-old hamsters are affected and show signs of lethargy, loss of appetite, unkempt hair coat, watery (sometimes bloody) diarrhea, and a wet anal and tail area. This disease requires immediate treatment including fluid therapy, antibiotics, and hospitalization. Animals may die even with early, aggressive treatment. Fracture Fractures of the legs (broken legs) are very common and usually result from injuries sustained on exercise wheels. Mild injuries may heal on their own; severe injuries require amputation of the leg or euthanasia. Only sole-bottom exercise wheels should be used in the cage. Staph dermatitis A Staph bacterial skin infection can occur on the muzzle and nose of gerbils. It is seen as areas of hair loss and moisture. Treatment involves antibiotics. Muzzle Dermatitis This is similar to, and often difficult to differentiate from, the staph dermatitis previously mentioned. In addition to a Staph infection, muzzle alopecia (hair loss) can result from a parasitic infection called mange, or from trauma, such as that which occurs from the gerbil constantly rubbing its snout on the feeders or the cage itself. Seizure The gerbil is unique among rodents in that spontaneous, epileptic-type seizures can occur, often after handling the pet. Most gerbils do not require medication for the seizures.

PET GREEN IGUANA

	General Information The green iguana is a popular lizard pet. Mature males (2 years and older) are easily distinguished from females as they have larger and more pronounced femoral pores on the inner aspects of the thighs than females. These pores are openings of glands that are used in marking behaviors. Under proper conditions, adults can reach several pounds and grow to 6 feet in length. Therefore, proper provisions must be made for a larger enclosure as the pet ages. Sexual maturity is reached by 2 years of age. Females can lay eggs without a male, although the eggs will be infertile and not hatch. With proper care, your iguana can live 10-15 years. Spaying and neutering can be done for conditions such as chronic egg laying in females or aggressiveness in mature males. Iguanas do not have diaphragms; they use muscles located between their ribs (intercostal muscles) for breathing. Iguanas have a three-chambered heart; dogs, cats, and people have four chambers in their hearts. Iguanas have a renal portal blood system, where blood from the hindlimbs is filtered by the kidneys before reaching the general circulation. This means toxins from the rear limbs (as could occur from wounds on the legs) as well as drugs injected into the rear legs would probably be filtered before entering the general circulation. Iguanas excrete uric acid as their main waste product of protein metabolism (dogs, cats, and people excrete urea). This allows them to adapt to desert environments where water supply might be restricted. Males have two reproductive organs called hemipenes. Iguanas have a cloaca, which receives secretions from the urinary, gastrointestinal, and reproductive systems. The skin is covered with scales and is usually shed in patches, unlike the situation in snakes where the skin is usually shed in one piece. Unlike many reptiles, iguanas have a urinary bladder. Where to start? Most owners buy iguanas locally from a pet store or often rescued through shelters. Ask about a guarantee if the pet isn't what you want. Young, captive-raised animals make the best pets. Older imported animals are harder to tame, may harbor internal parasites, and often suffer from the stress of captivity. Avoid sick-looking animals. Start out right with a healthy pet. Avoid lizards that appear skinny, have loose skin or sunken eyes, and appear inactive or lethargic. A healthy iguana is usually bright green, active, and alert. The vent or cloaca should be clean and free of wetness or stool stuck to it. If you can GENTLY open the mouth (tapping lightly on the snout with a finger often works), there should be a small amount of clear saliva present, and a bright pink tongue and oral cavity. Mucus that is cloudy or "cottage cheese" in appearance is a sign of mouth rot, as is redness or pinpoint hemorrhages on the mucus membranes. Always inquire about the guarantee in case the iguana is found to be unhealthy. First veterinarian visit Within 48 hours of your purchase, a qualified reptile veterinarian should examine your iguana. The visit includes determining the animal's weight, as well as checking for lumps and bumps. The animal is examined for signs of dehydration and starvation. A fecal test is done to check for internal parasites. Many veterinarians consider all iguanas (even those bred in captivity) to have pinworms, so your iguana may be routinely dewormed for these parasites (these pinworms are not transmissible to people). The oral cavity is examined for signs of infectious stomatitis (mouth rot). No vaccines are required for iguanas. Your doctor may recommend blood tests, cultures, or radiographs (X-rays) to check for other diseases. If all turns out well, your iguana will be given a clean bill of health. Like all pets, iguanas should be examined annually and have their feces tested for parasites annually as well. What type of housing does my iguana require? Smaller juvenile pets often do well in a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium. As your iguana grows, he must be moved to more comfortable enclosures. These can often be purchased or built by the pet owner. Your veterinarian or pet store may have examples of these larger enclosures
		to give you an idea of the proper habitat for an adult iguana. What type of bedding? Substrate, or bedding material, should be easy to clean and nontoxic to the iguana. Newspaper, butcher paper, towels, or preferably Astroturf is recommended. When using Astroturf, buy two pieces and cut them to fit the bottom of the cage. With two pieces, one is placed in the cage and one is kept outside the cage and is always clean. When the turf inside the cage becomes soiled, you'll always have a clean, dry piece to replace it. Clean the soiled turf with ordinary soap and water (avoid harsher products unless your reptile veterinarian approves them), thoroughly rinse it, and hang it to dry to be used at the next cage cleaning. Alfalfa pellets can also be used for bedding and are often eaten by the iguana, which is acceptable. AVOID sand, gravel, wood shavings, corn cob material, walnut shells, and cat litter, as these are not only difficult to clean but can cause impactions (blockages) if eaten on purpose or accidentally should the food become covered by these substrates. Cedar wood shavings are toxic to reptiles! What else? The iguana enjoys natural branches. Make sure they are secure and won't fall onto the lizard and injure it. Ideally, the branch should slope from the bottom of the enclosure to the top and end near a heat source so the iguana can bask. Rocks (large ones) in the cage also allow for basking. A hiding place is appreciated by all reptiles and should be available. Artificial plants can be arranged to provide a hiding place, as can clay pots, cardboard boxes, and other containers that provide a secure area. A heat source is necessary for all reptiles, which are cold-blooded and need a range of temperatures to regulate their internal body temperature. Ideally, the cage should be set up so that a heat gradient is established, with one area of the tank warmer than the other end. In this way, the iguana can move around its environment and warm or cool itself as needed. Purchase two thermometers and place one at the cooler end of the cage and one at the warmer end near the heat source. The cooler end of the cage should be approximately 70-75 F, while the warmer end should be 90-100 F. An inexpensive way to do this is to supply a focal heat source using a 100-watt incandescent bulb with a reflector hood, although pet stores sell other types of heat lamps. Your heat source should be placed OUTSIDE and above one end of the cage, which should be covered by a screen top to prevent the iguana from escaping or burning itself on the bulb. At night, heat isn't necessary as long as the temperature remains at 65-70 F. "Hot Rocks" or "Sizzle Rocks" are dangerous, ineffective, and should be avoided! UV light UV light is necessary to provide Vitamin D-3. Failure to provide UV light can predispose your iguana to metabolic bone disease, a common condition of pet iguanas. The UV light should emit light in the UV-B range (290-320 nanometers). Combining a blacklight (such as one from General Electric) with a Vita-Lite, Chroma-50, or Colortone-50 in a two-bulb fixture is an excellent way to provide UV light, although many iguanas do well with just a Vita-Lite. Your veterinarian may recommend other brands of UV light that also provide a source of Vitamin D-3. The UV output of these lights decreases with age and they should be replaced every six months. For UV light to work, it must reach the pet in an unfiltered form, which means that you must make sure there is no glass or plastic interposed between the pet and the light. Finally, the light should be within 6-12 inches from the iguana in order for the pet to receive any benefit. Feeding my iguana  Iguanas are mainly herbivorous, meaning they eat a lot of plants. The hindgut of the iguana is highly specialized to allow fiber digestion, similar to the stomach compartments of cattle. The feeding regimen varies with age this is one that has worked well for many iguana owners. Be sure to discuss a specific regimen for your pet with your veterinarian. For juvenile iguanas (less than 2 years of age): 80% of the diet can be plant-based protein and 20% animal -based protein. For adult iguanas (over 2 years of age): 90%-100% of the diet should be plant-based protein and 0-10% animal-based protein. How often to feed Most young iguanas eat daily; older iguanas can be fed daily or every other day, depending upon each pet's individual appetite. Plant material types Most (80-90%) of the plant material should be flowers and vegetables, and only 10-20% should be fruits. As a rule, anything green and leafy should make up a large part of the diet. Yellow and orange vegetables should also be included. Avoid fiber-rich, vitamin-deficient vegetables including lettuce and celery; their composition is mainly fiber and water with little vitamins or minerals. Acceptable vegetables include collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, alfalfa hay or chow, bok choy, kale, parsley, spinach (in small amounts), bell peppers, green beans, green peas, corn, okra, cactus, various squash, sweet potatoes, cabbage or broccoli (also in small amounts), and flowers such as carnations, hibiscus, and roses (avoid azaleas as they are toxic). Fruit can include apples, pears, bananas, grapes, peaches, kiwis, and melons. Fruits that are particularly healthy include figs (which contain calcium), papaya, raspberries and strawberries. Protein foods If you and your doctor decide that animal-based protein sources are acceptable, some appropriate foods include crickets, sardines (drained), tofu, hard-boiled eggs, moths, and mealworms. Dog and cat food, contain too much Vitamin D and fat and should not be fed. Reptile pellets, bird pellets, trout chow, and other fish chows are excellent protein sources. Live prey, such as crickets and worms, should either be raised by the owner, retrieved from a nearby field, or purchased from a pet store or reptile breeder. Care must be exercised when collecting insects, especially from the home garden as fertilizers and insecticides can be toxic to iguanas. What vitamins It is recommended by many veterinarians to LIGHTLY sprinkle all the food offered to the iguana with a calcium powder (calcium gluconate, lactate, or carbonate). A LIGHT weekly sprinkling of a good reptile vitamin on the food is also recommended. A common problem seen in pet iguanas is over-supplementation with vitamins and minerals. Check with your veterinarian for specific recommendations about the need to supplement your pet's diet. Water Fresh water in a crock that won't easily tip over should be available at all times. Iguanas will not only drink from the water bowl but will often bathe in it as well (although it is perfectly acceptable to mist the iguana with water a few times a week too). Make sure the water stays clean; many iguanas love to eliminate in their water bowl as well as drink from it. Common diseases of pet iguanas Common conditions of pet iguanas include metabolic bone disease, infectious stomatitis (mouth rot), parasites, abscesses, and hypervitaminosis D. Feeding an improper diet that is low in calcium or Vitamin D and high in phosphorus most often causes metabolic bone disease, probably the most common condition of pet iguanas. Common signs include swelling of the lower jaw and/or swelling of the hind limbs. As the condition progresses, muscle twitching, loss of appetite, and loss of energy (lethargy) are seen. Infectious Stomatitis (Mouth Rot) is seen as pinpoint hemorrhages on the gums or an excess amount of thick mucus, often like cottage cheese, in the mouth. Parasites, especially pinworms, are common in pet iguanas. They often cause no clinical signs and are detected on an annual fecal examination. They may, however, cause diarrhea or weight loss. Abscesses, commonly seen in pet iguanas, appear as hard tumor-like swellings anywhere on the pet's body. Hypervitaminosis D is a condition that develops as owners either over-supplement the iguana's diet with vitamins and minerals or feed it dog or cat food. Clinical signs are vague and include lack of appetite and lethargy. Signs of disease Signs of disease in iguanas may be specific for a certain disease, such as jaw or hind-limb swelling as seen in iguanas with metabolic bone disease, or non-specific, such as an iguana with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases. ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian. Any of these diseases can be severe enough to cause a loss of appetite and lethargy. When seen, these signs indicate a guarded prognosis and the need for hospitalization and intensive care, which can include fluid therapy and force-feeding. Special Problems of Pet Iguanas Iguanas have several unique problems; understanding these problems will allow you to better care for your pet and minimize future health care problems. Cystic Calculi Commonly called bladder stones, these occur when minerals from the diet form crystals, which then form stones. Usually these are composed of uric acid, which usually results from a diet that contains too much protein (such as a diet high in dog food or cat food). Often, you will detect blood in your iguana's droppings. An examination and radiographs (X-rays) allow your veterinarian to correctly diagnosis the problem. Surgical removal of the stones is needed, as is fluid therapy to prevent kidney damage. Your veterinarian will discuss dietary correction in an attempt to prevent future stones from forming. Salmonella While turtles are most commonly incriminated for causing Salmonella bacterial infections in children, iguanas have lately been determined to be a source of this infection as well. This bacterium can cause severe gastrointestinal disease or septicemia (blood poisoning). Many animals and people carry the bacteria without showing any clinical signs (remember Typhoid Mary?), yet shed the bacteria in their feces which can infect others. Prevention, through proper hygiene, is the best way to control the disease. Since most iguanas which carry Salmonella are not ill, they usually require no treatment (treatment often fails to kill the bacterium anyway). Avascular Necrosis Iguanas are often afflicted with a condition called avascular necrosis. In this condition, blood flow to the affected body part, usually the tip of the tail or one of the digits (toes), is blocked. The blocked blood flow means that the affected body part doesn't receive blood, and starts to become necrotic, or dies. Within a short period of time, the toe or tip of the tail becomes discolored and possibly infected. The necrosis or infection can spread up the tail or to other toes. Several things can cause the blood vessels to become blocked, such as infection spreading to the tail or toe, a blood clot in another part of the body (embolus) spreading to the tail or toe, trauma causing damage to the blood vessels, or a tumor cutting off the blood supply to the tail or toe. Usually, the cause is not determined. Treatment involves amputating the affected tail or toe in an effort to stop the spread of the necrosis. Most pets recover well and lead normal lives after the surgery.

HEDGEHOGS

General Information They are mammals whose entire back is covered with spines. Unlike porcupines, they do not throw their spines. The spines are sharp and can injure owners. As a defense mechanism, hedgehogs "ball up" exposing their spiny backsides. Because they often "ball up" owners may not be able to handle them and play with them like other pets. In the wild, hedgehogs eat insects. Their life expectancy is about 10 years. During the day, hedgehogs burrow and sleep most of the time; hedgehogs are nocturnal pets in the wild.  A. Hedgehogs have a keen sense of hearing.B. Hedgehogs are covered with sharp spines on its backside.C. Frightened hedgehogs may hiss or spit and "ball up".D. Hedgehogs will hibernate if the environmental temperature falls below 60 degrees. Hedgehogs do not need to hibernate and many veterinarians recommend against hibernation as problems with disease can occur if the hedgehogs are not healthy prior to hibernation or if hibernation does not proceed correctly. Talk with your doctor about whether or not you should allow your hedgehog to hibernate. Hedgehogs have a lower body temperature (95 degrees F or 35 degrees C) than most mammals. Getting Your Pet Hedgehogs are usually purchased at pet shops or through breeders. As with any pet purchase, avoid hedgehogs that appear ill. Hedgehogs should be bright and alert, and move quickly when startled. Avoid pets with closed eyes or discharge from the eyes or nose. As they readily "ball up" when disturbed, it may be difficult to inspect them closely. If possible, check the ears for redness or excess wax, which might indicate an infection. Check the mouth for broken teeth or red and inflamed gums. The pet should neither feel fat nor thin; you should be able to feel the ribs with just a small amount of fat over them. Check the anal area for diarrhea or moistness, which might indicate a gastrointestinal infection. The spines should be free of excess scaliness. First Veterinary Visit Your hedgehog should come with a health guarantee that requires a checkup by a veterinarian with a few days (usually 48 hours) after purchase. All pets including hedgehogs need regular veterinary examinations. Select a doctor knowledgeable about hedgehogs. The visit includes determining the animal's weight, as well as checking for lumps or bumps. The animal is examined for signs of dehydration and starvation. A fecal test is test is done to check for internal parasites. The veterinarian can also determine the sex of your pet. If all turns out well, your pet will be given a clean bill of health. Like all pets, pet hedgehogs should be examined annually and have their feces tested for parasites during the annual visit. Housing pet hedgehog The cage should allow a lot of movement by the hedgehog. Walls must be high enough to prevent escape. Some owners use a glass aquarium; others use dog or cat carriers or cages suitable for rabbits or ferrets. Care should be used if wire-bottom cages are provided as the hedgehog can easily injure a foot in the wire; the wire bottom must be thoroughly covered (as with Plexiglas). Hedgehogs are very susceptible to extremes in temperature. Heat stroke is possible with temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit may induce hibernation, which is not recommended due to problems with disease. While hedgehogs can be housed in groups, fights can occur, especially if adequate space is not available. For this reason, most owners choose to house only one pet per cage. Cages should be cleaned at least weekly, with soap and water (rinse well), or when they become dirty as hedgehogs are susceptible to skin irritations from urine and feces. What Toys? A hiding box, such as a cardboard box or plastic flowerpot, works well. Chew toys can also be placed in the cage, although they are not necessary. The smallest piece of the toy should be too big to be swallowed by the hedgehog. Bedding material Shredded paper or wood shavings make fine bedding.  Feeding my hedgehogs In the wild, hedgehogs eat mostly insects. As pets, hedgehogs should be fed high quality dog or cat food. Small amounts of insects, such as worms and crickets, and a small amount of fresh vegetables and fruits can also be offered. Avoid lettuce and celery, which are low in nutritional value, and avocados, which might be toxic. Insects should be purchased from a pet store or raised in the home; care should be used in obtaining insects from gardens where insecticides and fertilizers have been used. As a rule, hedgehogs don't require treats, although an occasional offering of fresh vegetables, fruits, and grains is acceptable. Don't offer any "people food" without checking with your veterinarian first. Water Water can be left in the cage 24 hours a day. Most owners choose to offer water through a sipper bottle hung in the cage. Check it whenever you change the water (at least daily) to make sure the sipper tube has not become clogged with food. Common diseases of pet hedgehogs Common conditions of pet hedgehogs include parasites, ringworm, and pneumonia. Both internal and external parasites are seen in hedgehogs. Internal parasites ("worms" and protozoa) can cause diarrhea (intestinal parasites), coughing (lungworms), or be diagnosed during the yearly fecal examination in animals that are not showing any symptoms. External parasites that may be seen include fleas, ticks, and mites, and cause various types of dermatitis. Ringworm is not really a worm but rather a fungus. Clinical signs can include missing spines, hair loss, flaking, and crusting of the skin. It can be transmissible to other pets and people. Respiratory diseases, especially pneumonia, are often seen in pet hedgehogs. Nasal discharge, sneezing, and difficulty in breathing may be seen. Severely affected pets may be listless and stop eating. One of the most common causes of pneumonia in hedgehogs is the bacterium Bordetella bronchiseptica, which causes kennel cough in dogs. It might be wise to limit contact between dogs and hedgehogs; all dogs in the house should be vaccinated against kennel cough. How do I know if my hedgehog is sick? Signs of disease in hedgehogs may be specific for a certain disease. Often, signs are vague and non-specific, such as a hedgehog with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases including pneumonia, overgrown teeth, cancer, and even kidney or liver failure. ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian. Special Problems of Hedgehogs Hedgehogs have several unique problems; understanding these problems will allow you to better care for your pet and minimize future health care problems. Cancer  Cancer is very prevalent in hedgehogs, especially those over 3 years old. Tumors have been reported in all body organs in hedgehogs, but are especially common in the gastrointestinal tract. Signs are often vague and non-specific, including weight loss, loss of appetite, and lethargy. Anting Anting is a peculiar behavior seen in hedgehogs. When seeing an unfamiliar object, hedgehogs often lick the object repeatedly until a frothy saliva accumulates in their mouths. They will then rub this saliva onto their skin and spines. It is not known why hedgehogs do this or the purpose the behavior serves. Difficulty Examining Hedgehogs commonly "ball up" when handled. This makes an examination by your veterinarian difficult if not impossible. Most hedgehogs will require anesthesia for even a simple examination. While there is always a risk with anesthesia, the risk of death is greater if an examination and needed tests (such as blood tests or radiographs (X-rays) are not performed. In order to properly diagnose and treat your pet, these tests are necessary and so is the short period of anesthesia that may be required.