BREEDING FOR PET OWNERS

This is information for serious breeders only. Many dogs are put down in shelters every year due to over population or owners changing their minds to keep their dog, thus breeding should not be taken lightly.

The heat cycle

Puberty or sexual maturity in the female dog usually occurs around six months of age. The smaller breeds tend to go into “heat” earlier and some females can have their first “heat” or estrus as early as four months of age. On the other hand, the large and giant breeds can be up to two years old before they come into heat for the first time.

On average this occurs about twice a year, although it varies from dog to dog. After the first heat there is often a great deal of variation in the frequency and this is normal. Some females take a year to eighteen months to develop a regular cycle.

Heat cycles vary, but average two to three weeks for most dogs. Heat should be considered to begin with the first signs of discharge and with the female paying attention to her vulva. The vulva will begin to appear swollen. It ends when all discharge ceases and the vulva has returned to its normal size.

Signs of heat?

The most notable sign is vaginal bleeding. Often this does not become apparent until a few days after the female has actually come into estrus. Vulvar swelling should be taken as the first sign in addition to the female paying increased attention to her rear end.

From the beginning of the heat period she will be attractive to male dogs but does not usually allow mating until about 7-17 days later. The discharge will usually become less bloodstained at this time.

Some females experience heavy vaginal bleeding during estrus.

You may also find that she is passing small quantities of urine more frequently. The urine contains both pheromones and hormones signaling to any interested males that she will be receptive soon.

When to mate my dog?

This can be difficult. Some females can ovulate either early or late during the heat period. Most ovulate and are receptive around the 11th day of estrus. The discharge will then be less bloody and the female will be actively looking for a male.

Tests to determine when to mate my dog

There are two simple tests available from your veterinarian.

1. Vaginal smear test. A simple microscopic examination of vaginal cells will detect changes in cell appearance and numbers. This has been used for many years and is reasonably reliable. It is non-invasive and does not cause discomfort for the female.
2. Blood test. This determines changes in the progesterone level in the blood. This test is very sensitive and has become popular due to its accuracy.

Both tests can be performed at the veterinary practice. The blood test gives a very good indication when mating is most likely to be successful and is very useful for females that have a history of unsuccessful mating or for breeding dogs that have to travel considerable distance to the stud.

Successful Mating

Surprisingly, male dogs appear to be more stress sensitive than females during mating. Thus successful matings are more common when the dog is in its own environment. It is for this reason that females are usually taken to the stud dog.

The time of mating is extremely critical and it is worthwhile to have tests carried out at the practice to determine the ideal mating period. For most females, the best time for breeding is between the 10-14th day of estrus. Some females ovulate as early as the third or fourth day or as late as the eighteenth day. Blood tests will assist in determining the best period for your dog.

It is also normal to arrange for two matings for your dog, often 24 or 48 hours apart. Check these details with the owner of the stud when making initial enquiries. Also check the situation if your dog does not become pregnant as a result of the service.

The genital anatomy of the male and female is such that during coitus part of the dog’s penis (the bulbis glandis) enlarges and is held firmly by the muscles of the vagina which contract, thus preventing the penis from being withdrawn. This is the “tie” that is considered a desirable feature of a successful mating. It is important to note that pregnancy can occur without a “tie”. Once “tied” the male dog will often step over the female or be turned by handlers into a position so that the animals are back to back.

If you did not intend to mate your dog there is little point in trying to separate animals that are locked in this way. Buckets of cold water, water pistols, cap guns etc. do little to speed up the process of separation and merely upset the animals. In fact, forced separation can result in serious injury to the female and should be avoided.

If a missmating has occurred, discuss it with your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Pregnancy in the dogs

Pregnancy, also called the gestation period, normally ranges from 57-65 days with an average of 63 days.

With a planned breeding, the date of mating should be carefully recorded. If there are two matings, make a note of the exact dates and expect birth to occur between 63 and 65 days later.

Make sure that you only mate your dog with only one other dog. Remember that estrus will continue for several more days. After a planned mating it is a good idea to allow her to rest quietly for a few hours.

Pregnancy and Diet

It is important that she is in good physical condition before she is mated. Both the male and female dog should be examined by a veterinarian prior to mating.

After mating food intake should remain the same during the first two-thirds of pregnancy (approximately six weeks after mating). If a well-balanced diet is being fed there is no need to use additional vitamin or mineral supplements. Discuss nutritional supplements and vitamins with your veterinarian before giving them to your dog. Some large breed dogs may have adverse effects if they are given certain supplements.

After the sixth week of pregnancy, food intake should be gradually increased and high energy, low fiber foods are recommended. As the fetuses increase in size, abdominal pressure increases and frequent small meals are advised.

During the last three weeks of pregnancy, food intake can be increased by up to one and a half times the normal level giving small meals more frequently.

Some commonly used drugs should be avoided if your dog is pregnant.

How to know if my dog is pregnant?

Early pregnancy detection in dogs can be extremely difficult. We now have a reliable laboratory blood test. Trans-abdominal palpation (feeling the abdomen for enlarged uterus) by a veterinarian at about three to four weeks after mating can be useful but not always as certain as the pregnancy test.

Abdominal ultrasound is another method of choice today but can be costly. Ultrasound is not very reliable in determining the number of puppies you can expect. An abdominal radiograph (x-ray) during the last two weeks of pregnancy is the most accurate method for counting fetuses.

Exercise changes during pregnancy

As pregnancy progresses intra-abdominal pressure increases together with food requirements. Therefore the number of meals rather than the quantity per meal has to be increased. Let your pet decide how much physical activity she needs. This depends on the number of puppies and the amount of intra-abdominal pressure she is experiencing. Do not over exercise. Check for any vaginal discharges and contact your veterinarian if you have any concerns

Preparing for whelping

From the time of mating many females will show behavioral changes, often becoming more affectionate. However, some pets will become uncharacteristically irritable and may even act aggressive. Be sensitive to your pet’s changes and be sure to alert your veterinarian if you observe any changes that you are uncomfortable with.

Some dogs do experience a few days of vomiting (“morning sickness”) usually followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which will persist throughout the pregnancy. Morning sickness does not occur in all dogs. There is also a normal decrease in the desire for exercise and physical activity during the first three weeks of pregnancy.

During the last week of pregnancy the female often starts to look for a safe place for whelping. Some pets appear to become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time wanting to prepare their nest. It is a good idea to get your pet used to the place where you want her to have her puppies well in advance of whelping. Even so, there are a number of dogs that insist on having their puppies near the owner. This may be in the middle of the night, on your bed. Be warned!

Even if you prepared an area for her to deliver the puppies, it will be far less stressful for everyone to allow her to continue in her chosen place. Make sure you spread lots of old newspaper or towels and, if possible, cover the carpet with a plastic sheet covered by newspaper. Remember it is normal for fetal fluids to be colored green. These stains can be difficult to clean.

Once your pet has finished whelping, try gently moving her and family to your chosen place. She should be well acquainted with this area prior to whelping.

If your pet insists on being near you with her puppies, allow her. A whelping box in a quiet corner of the living room that has been covered with newspapers and sheets is preferable to an anxious mother constantly leaving her puppies. Do not allow other dogs near her with the puppies as she will think they will want to hurt the puppies and she may attack the other dog.

Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. Respect your pet’s wishes and avoid intruding any more than necessary.

How do I prepare in advance?

1. Make sure you have plenty of clean newspaper and sheets or towels.
   
2. Select the place where you would like her to have her puppies. Make sure that a suitable whelping box has been selected and placed there. The whelping box should be large enough for her to move around freely with low sides so that she can see and easily move in and out. A large cardboard packing case with an open top and a piece cut out at the side is ideal for many dogs. Be sure to ask your veterinary healthcare team for more advice on making a whelping box for your pet.
   
3. Line the bottom of the whelping box with plenty of paper. There will be a large amount of fluid at the time of whelping. If sufficient layers of newspaper and cloth are laid before whelping, you can remove soiled layers with minimum interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies immediately after the whelping.
   
4. Acrylic bedding, which is easily washed, can be used to cover the newspaper, although, during the whelping, plain newspaper is probably less hazardous and the puppies are less likely to get hidden beneath it.

Early signs of labour onset

Some females stop eating during the last 24 hours before labor, although this is certainly not universal. The rectal temperature will drop below 37.8°C (100°F) usually an hour or two before whelping.

These signs may last for up to 24 hours and are part of first stage labor.

Second stage labor is the stage of delivery. Your dog will start to strain. If straining continues for two hours without any signs of a watery discharge (“water breaking”) or puppies, you should contact your veterinarian. Most dogs experience no complications with delivery. First time mothers should be attended by their owners until at least one or two puppies have been born.

If there are no problems, further attendance will depend upon the your pet and the situation. As mentioned previously, some prefer you to be there, while others prefer to be alone.

Whelping

Delivery times vary. Dogs with fairly slim heads such as Shelties, Collies and Dobermans may complete delivery of all the puppies within 2-3 hours. Brachycephalic breeds, i.e. those with large, round heads such as Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Pekingese, tend to have more difficult deliveries and sometimes will produce one or two relatively quickly and then rest for a while before labor starts again.

If your dog has produced at least one puppy and then does not strain again within two hours, we should be contacted. Similarly if the bitch has been straining continuously for a couple of hours and has not had a puppy it is important that she receives veterinary care.

Puppies are usually born headfirst with the forelegs extended. This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch. Here the puppy is born with tail and hindlegs coming first. This is not breech presentation. A breech presentation is one in which the hindlegs are forward and the tail and bottom are presented. This is abnormal.

Some breech presentations can result in a normal delivery but usually result in complications. If a puppy’s tail is seen hanging from the vulva or there is a lump just behind the vulval lips and your pet is straining, contact the veterinarian immediately.

Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta or afterbirth. This sac is usually broken at birth and passed after each puppy is born. This is often unnoticed since it is normal for the female to eat them. The hormones the afterbirth contains help with milk production. Sometimes a mother will have two or three puppies and then pass several of the afterbirths together.

It may be difficult to obtain an accurate count of the number of afterbirths since most dogs will eat them quickly. If an afterbirth is not passed, it usually disintegrates and passes unnoticed within 24-48 hours after delivery. This usually happens when the dog relieves herself. Watch your dog for fever in case of retained placenta or g.i. tract upsets if she eats too many of the afterbirths. Many dogs get sick since this is a diet change and can cause vomiting and diarrhea or severe constipation.

If the mother has a bloody or smelly vaginal discharge 24-48 hours after delivery, veterinary help should be sought.

In a normal delivery a few contractions will produce the puppy. Ten minutes is reasonable. Following delivery the mother will lick and chew at the puppy and often appears to be treating it quite roughly. In most cases this is normal behavior and stimulates the puppy to start breathing. During the chewing and licking she tears the birth sac and exposes the mouth and nose so that the puppy can breathe. You will realize all is well if the puppy starts to whimper or cry.

Sometimes the placenta is delivered immediately after the puppy and is attached by the umbilical cord. The mother normally chews the umbilical cord and breaks it about an inch from the puppy, consuming the placenta at the same time. However in some breeds the mother seems to become over enthusiastic and may lick and chew at the puppy until she injures it. Therefore, it is advisable to observe the dog as she cares for her newborn puppies, particularly if it is her first litter.

Remember the puppy is born in a fluid filled sac that usually breaks during birth. If the puppy is delivered still in the sac, break it as quickly as possible, if the mother needs help. Clean the puppy’s face and nostrils and then gently blow on its face to try and stimulate breathing.

Next, hold the puppy in a towel and gently rub it until the hair starts to dry. The puppy should then start to whimper and breathe normally. The tongue should be pink. You can then offer it to the mother. If she is more interested in delivering further puppies, place it in a box with a warm water bottle covered by a towel. Be sure to cover the puppy with a warm towel to keep it warm.

If the puppy is visible but my dog can’t deliver it this is an emergency

Speed is of the essence in such situations, especially if it is a posterior or breech presentation. If the puppy is coming headfirst make sure that the membranes are removed from the visible part of the mouth and face. If the puppy is coming backwards, speed is important otherwise it will suffocate. This is considered a medical emergency.

If you cannot move the puppy or if it appears to be painful to the mother, seek veterinary help immediately.

Keep the puppies warm

The puppies have been living in a temperature of 38.5°C (101.5°F) which is pretty warm by human standards. However, immediately after birth puppies are unable to control their own body temperature and are dependent upon external warmth. Many puppies lack the strength to move away from a heat source. Be sure to use a thermometer, especially if you are using heat lamps. Keep the area around 30°C (100°F).

What to do if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?

Although the majority of dogs will give birth without the need for assistance, problems can arise which require veterinary attention. It is important to closely monitor your pet during birthing and seek veterinary care if you have any concerns.

Start of Labour

When whelping is imminent the female often stops eating (although this is not always the case) and her rectal temperature often drops below 38.1°C (100°F). The female will often go into corners and start scratching to make her bed. If you see any of these signs, you may wish to contact your veterinarian since this is the first stage labor when the birth canal starts to dilate.

This is followed by second stage labor when the female starts to forcibly contract her uterus. These contractions start gradually and increase in intensity, frequency and duration. If intense contractions have been occurring for 20 to 30 minutes without a puppy being delivered, it is important to contact your veterinarian.

Other situations where veterinary help is needed include:

1. A mother straining for 8-10 minutes with a puppy or fluid filled bubble stuck in the birth canal
   
2. A female with a body temperature of more than 39.5°C (103°F)
   
3. Bleeding from the vagina for more than ten minutes
   
4. A green discharge from the vagina without puppies being born

Are some of the puppies likely to be stillborn or die after birth?

With animals that have multiple births, like dogs, it is not unusual for some of the offspring to either be born dead or to die shortly after birth. Sometimes a stillborn puppy will disrupt the birthing process resulting in dystocia or birthing complication.

At other times the dead puppy may be born normally.

Determining the cause of these neonatal deaths is often impossible without a full post mortem (autopsy), including bacteriological examination and submission of tissues to a histopathologist.

Some causes of neonatal death can be prevented. It is important to consult with your veterinarian regarding any problems with your pet’s pregnancy or whelping.

Some breeds need Caesarian sections more commonly than a normal delivery

Unfortunately in certain breeds there are strains and families that do seem to have increased risk of dystocia (difficult birth) resulting in the need for a Caesarian section. The timing of this is always difficult. If performed too late it can result in dead puppies and if embarked upon too early, it may have subjected the bitch to unnecessary surgery. It is a matter that always requires full and frank discussion between you and your veterinarian.

Care of the newborn puppies

For the next two months, even if everything went smoothly with the birth, you have a lot of work to do! After the birthing process, clean up the mother as much as possible without upsetting her. Remove any of the soiled newspaper, bedding, etc.

Normally the new mother will spend most of her time with the puppies. For the first few days it may be difficult to get her to leave the nest to go to the bathroom. However, it is important that she continue to urinate and defecate normally. Do not be afraid of putting her on a collar and leash and taking her out for a short period if she refuses to go on her own. She will only want to be out for a few minutes but during that time you can clean up the bed and make the whelping box safe for the puppies.

Post partum problems to looking for

Check the vulva to see if there is very much discharge. After 24 hours this should be minimal. It is normally a greenish black color and if she has not expelled all her afterbirths during birthing, the discharge may be quite copious. However, it should lessen significantly after 24-48 hours. If not, contact your veterinarian. It is not unusual for some slight bloody discharge to be present each time the mother nurses for the first week or two.

Check her teats to make sure that none are swollen, hot, hard or tender. If you find anything abnormal, please have her examined.

Check the puppies

It is worthwhile, particularly with a first time mother, to check the puppies every few hours to make sure they are all suckling and are warm and contented. Any that are crying or appear cold should be placed on the inguinal (hind) teats and checked frequently to make sure they are not pushed away by the other puppies. The teats between the hind legs usually give the most milk.

Post-natal veterinary check

It is important to have the mother and puppies examined by your veterinarian within 24-48 hours of birth. We will check the mother to make sure there is no infection and that she is producing sufficient milk. The puppies will also be examined to make sure that there are no abnormalities such as cleft palates. Any necessary medications or injections will be administered during this visit.

Weigh the puppies regularly

Electronic kitchen or postal scales allow regular weighing of puppies. This gives a guide to their condition and progress.

Problems to look for

During the first two weeks of life, before their eyes open, puppies should feed and sleep at least 90% of the time. If you are weighing the puppies regularly (once a day), there should be a consistent increase in weight. If any of the puppies appear restless or make mewing noises, this may indicate a lack of nourishment or infection.

If you are concerned please consult your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Declining weight records should arouse your suspicions. Keep careful records. Identify the puppies with permanent markers, marked on the abdomen (various colors are available).

A contented litter of plump puppies is the usual indication. Any puppies that appear restless and do not have fat tummies will benefit from supplemental feeding one to three times a day. Please contact your vet and we will supply the necessary food and feeders. It is important that any supplementary feeding is carried out at the correct temperature. One rule of thumb is to drop some of the warm, puppy milk replacer on your arm. It should not feel too hot but about your normal body temperature.

All the commercial products carry detailed instructions regarding preparation and feeding amounts. We will advise you on supplemental feedings for your puppy’s needs.

Mastitis and can occur very quickly. This is the reason that mother’s mammary glands should be checked regularly for any inflammation, tenderness or hardness.

If the mother does not produce milk or her milk is infected, the puppies will not be nourished and will start to cry and lose weight. If this occurs, an entire litter can die within 24-48 hours. Total replacement feeding either via a foster mother or with artificial products is necessary. Please contact the veterinarian.

Eclampsia or milk fever is due to a depletion of calcium in the blood of the mother due to heavy milk production and is not due to infection.

It occurs most commonly at birth or when the puppies are 3-5 weeks of age and the mother is producing the most milk. Eclampsia is not due to an overall lack of calcium, it merely indicates that she cannot mobilize sufficient supplies of stored calcium quickly enough to meet her metabolic needs. Females that are particularly good mothers, especially attentive to their puppies, always seem to suffer more severely.

Eclampsia is a true emergency and you must contact us immediately if you think the mother is in trouble. The signs are initially subtle. The female may be restless, panting and you may notice that she is moving stiffly. This soon progresses to muscle spasms affecting the whole body and she can quickly progress to convulsing.

Treatment involves injections of calcium and other drugs, often intravenously. If treated quickly, recovery is usually rapid and complete.

The puppies’ first few weeks of life

During the first three weeks of life, puppies require little care from the owner provided the mother is doing her job. Puppies are born with their eyes closed but they open after 7-14 days. If any swelling or bulging is noted under the eyelids they should be gently opened by massaging with a cotton ball dampened with warm water. If the swelling is due to infection, pus will emerge as the eyelids open and it is important to contact your veterinarian. If the eyes have not opened by 14-16 days of age or if you are concerned about any discharges, it is important to seek veterinary care.

The puppies’ growth rate should be monitored. Most puppies will double their birth weight in the first seven to eight days. Electronic or kitchen postal scales are ideal to monitor weights. A trend indicating increasing weight is more important than accurate weights.

As soon as the puppies’ eyes open they develop rapidly. By two weeks of age they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks they should be trying to climb out of their nest. At four weeks all the puppies should be able to walk, run and play.

Feeding the nursing mother

You will have increased your female’s food during the last two or three weeks of pregnancy.

After whelping, food requirements increase as the mother produces more milk for her growing puppies.

Maximum milk production occurs approximately three weeks after whelping and at this time it is not unusual for the mother to be eating three to four times her normal maintenance diet depending on the size of her litter, breed, etc.

It is important not to change the mother’s diet too suddenly especially immediately after whelping. Eating the afterbirth, which helps to stimulate milk production, also tends to promote diarrhea, which is the last thing you need with a nursing mother. If she has been fed a well-balanced diet, either canned or dry, you should have been gradually increasing the amount during the last 2 or 3 weeks of her pregnancy by increasing the frequency of feeding rather than the volume per meal.

After whelping she may not want to eat very much for 24-48 hours and then regain her appetite. It is recommended to feed her frequently, gradually increasing the amount per meal as her milk production increases and as her puppies grow. Make certain water is plentiful as it is needed to help with her milk production as well.

Do not feed your dog milk products during lactation. If a good veterinary-recommended diet is being fed, water is all that is necessary. Some breeds should not receive certain supplements. Be sure to consult with your veterinarian before giving any nutritional supplements or vitamins to your pet.

Weaning the puppies

Weaning describes the transition of the puppy’s diet from its mother’s milk to the solid growth diet of puppyhood.

Weaning begins naturally as soon as the puppies start to develop their teeth at three to four weeks of age. Suckling then irritates or hurts the mother who will move away and leave her puppies for longer and longer periods.

Once the puppies’ eyes are open, the sooner the puppies are weaned, the less the strain on the mother and the sooner she will return to normal condition.

If the puppies have been hand raised for any reason, the sooner they are weaned and eating solid food on their own, the better. It is worthwhile to begin offering soft foods as soon as their eyes are open.

Start by placing one of the reconstituted puppy milk replacers in a flat saucer. Puppies’ noses can be dipped into this or their noses and mouths wetted with a finger dipped in the formula. Repeat this two or three times a day until they begin to lap the replacer on their own. This usually takes one to four days.

Next try offering canned puppy food placed in the milk replacer until soggy. As the puppies lap at the milk they will also ingest the food. The amount of milk is then decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or no moisture added. This should be completed by 4-6 weeks of age.

Weaning them onto one of the complete puppy foods (which are available in dry, canned and semi moist forms) ensures balanced nutrition. Consult with your veterinarian regarding puppy vitamins. Recent research shows that not all breeds should receive all vitamins or nutritional supplements.

A good veterinarian-recommended diet is essential for the proper development of your puppy. At the time of weaning they should be fed small amounts often, approximately four to six times a day. By the time they are ready to be weaned from the mother, normally at about 6-8 weeks of age, they should be receiving about four meals a day. By the age of three months, the quantity can be increased and the frequency reduced to about three meals a day. Most breeds then progress to two meals a day at the age of four to nine months. Some of the slow maturing breeds, particularly the giant breeds, may require more frequent feeding until nearly two years old.

When can the puppies go to their new homes?

Most puppies can be placed in their new homes at around eight weeks of age. Puppies should remain with the litter this long to ensure proper weaning and social development. Puppies that are taken from the litter and mother earlier than this are known to have an increased amount of behavioral problems.

Vaccinations

Puppies receive some immunity to the major canine diseases from their mother before and shortly after birth through the first milk or colostrum. This is particularly true if the mother’s vaccinations are up to date. These maternal antibodies protect puppies against diseases to which the mother is immune. It is important to ensure that any inoculations are administered prior to mating your dog.

Maternal antibodies and their protection last only a few weeks. After this time the puppy becomes susceptible to disease. The duration of maternal antibodies is variable and depends on several factors. Vaccine technology has made tremendous progress over the last few years and a puppy can now be safely vaccinated at five to six weeks of age. Most puppies will receive two to three vaccinations against the common canine diseases as they grow.

How does one dry up the mother’s milk supply?

Starting at approximately three weeks after birth, as you start to wean the puppies, they will gradually feed less and less from the mother’s milk. She will be happy to leave the nest for longer and longer periods and, depending on her breed or type, will probably enjoy increased periods of exercise and physical activity. At the same time, her milk supply should be diminishing naturally and the frequency and quantity of food you are feeding her should also be decreased.